Monday, July 23, 2007

Let The Games Begin: Where Is The Top Dog?

It's NYC vs. LA in the War of the Weiner


Before the complaints begin, yes, I know, it is entirely possible that the best hot dog in America doesn't exist in LA or NYC.... could it be the Varsity in Atlanta? or perhaps Gold Coast Dogs in Chicago?.... dare I say a Lucky Dog cart in the French Quarter?

Well, for the sake of a massive case of indigestion and incremental yet substantial weight gain, I'll keep this initial battle between the two cities I know best... NYC and LA.


THE CONTENDERS

NEW YORK



Grey's Papaya: The old, cheap stand by is the self proclaimed king of street eats








Nathan's Famous: The dog that started it all








Katz's Deli: The famous village deli can make a mean deli style dog









LOS ANGELES




Pink's: The reigning champ is having it's share of problems


















Skooby's: Coming hard and fast to take the top spot




The Weiner Factory: Is LA's Top Dog in the Valley?









LET THE GAMES BEGIN



Stop #1 on this, the battle of the wiener, was Skooby's... the hot little stand on Hollywood Blvd in Los Angeles.


The Place
Don't expect much. Skooby's is a smallish, cramped space on a somewhat scary stretch of Hollywood Blvd. There is one lonely table within (a horrific experience if the place is packed) and a counter and 2 tables outside. It is somewhat clean, and organized which is a good thing, as when these guys get busy the place can look as if a bomb went off inside. Generally speaking, they do a fantastic job of getting you served in short fashion... with hot food.

The Bun
Extra points here. These are more than Hot Dog buns, they are homemade rolls that are grilled to perfection, warm and toasty. Genius.

The Wiener
A classic, meaty, snapskin dog. It is mild in flavor, and although I like mine with a bit more spice, it was still way better than 90% of the lifeless, bland dogs you'll usually find out there.


The Deal
Skooby's has a belief, which I concur... the best Hot Dog is often one you make yourself... I mean, only you know exactly how much mustard you like... so, basic dogs at Skooby's come plain, so you can dress them with the basics, found on the counter... plain and spicy mustard, onions, relish, kraut, hot sauces, etc....

Other dogs include a chili cheese dog with Guinness Chili and a garlic dog... but skip the extra dogs, you won't need them. The fries here are the deal. They are homemade from a box of real potatoes in plain view, and fried to crispy perfection, served with an addictive garlic aioli... (think Zankou sauce, but creamy and made for fries). Oh yea, the make delicious fresh squeezed lemonade as well. Look out Pinks.

THE VERDICT

Killer stuff. Great work on the details have vaulted Skooby's to the top of the LA heap in many peoples minds. This will certainly be a high contender to win my TOP DOG award. Pink's get ready... the bar has been set high!

Friday, July 20, 2007

Mario's OSTERIA MOZZA... Yes, It's All That and More

And You Think Babbo and Lupa are Good......


Hi There Foodies!

Well, I guess another apology is in order. It's been ages since I have updated this blog, and I am guessing that many of you have moved on. But for those of you who find themselves looking for straight talk, I've wrapped my globe trotting assignment, and I am back and raring to go.

Let's talk about food.

For those of you who haven't heard about the Batali-Silverton partnership, it is one made in heaven. The duo opened Pizzeria Mozza nearly 6 months ago, to much fanfare. Expectedly, the joint quickly became a favorite.. and was crowned King of LA pizza.

But make no bones about it, it's the Osteria that foodies have been waiting for, and last Friday the doors to heaven opened.

Lucky for me, a swung a reservation this week, a feat that most have been unable to accomplish. With most reservations taking a month or more, I luckily landed what I now believe to be a cancellation, and boy am I happy I did.

When you enter the space, you can't help but notice that 1. It's a handsome space (even if it is facing a gas station and a Jiffy Lube), and 2. There is a mozzarella bar smack dab in the middle of the room.

The menu is basically divided into Antipasti, Mozzarella, Primi, Secondi and Contorni.

As a group of 4 we ordered 2 antipasti and 2 mozzarella dishes, and devoured all four plates in about 3 minutes. The Gnocco Fritto with affetati misti was wonderful... mixed sliced ham and salume with lightly fried square pillows of dough, but the grilled octopus stole the show. The marinated, smoky octopus was incredibly tender, and surprisingly addictive.

As for mozzarella, we couldn't help but order the burrata with asparagus, walnuts and brown butter... as well as the bufala with pesto. Both were winners.

As we moved towards primi selections, I reverted back to my Lupa ways. At lupa, I often don't order a secondi... I order another primi. Since I firmly believe that Mario's strong suit is pasta, I get my fill... and this meal was no different. I guess this makes some sense, as 2 others at the table also ordered a second pasta.

Let's talk pasta.

There are no huge suprises here for the Batali crowd... you have the signature pork infused dishes here and there, but as usual, the simple dishes like the Linguine cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) is out of this world. The orrechiette with sausage and swiss chard was hearty and fragrant, the Goat Cheese Ravioli near perfect... and the large fresh riccota and egg raviolo (one massive ravioli) with browned butter was nearly an out of body experience.

Wonder why we ordered more?

There was also tortellini, an agnolotti with butter, an amazing looking gnocchi, a classic spaghetti with clams and panceta... and a perfectly cooked garganelli with a light bolognese. This is pasta heaven, and Mario's hand is present in the perfectly cooked pasta, always on the al dente side of firmness.

The other dishes looked incredible.. a pink snapper, an orata filet, a grilled salmon, grilled quail, grilled lamb, grilled beef (so they like the grill I am guessing) as well as slower prepared Beef Brasato and a Guinea Fowl with liver panceta sauce the waiter nearly forced us to order (we opted for the pasta). One of the diners in our party did order a wonderful pork "arista" with fennel and onions... and took it home as we had warned... to much food.


Side dishes looked spectacular, and included roasted potatoes, long cooked broccoli, marinated peppers, yellow wax beans, cipolline, spinach and broccoli rabe.

Deserts also looked amazing, but feeling mighty full, we passed....

So yes, the place is fab, and yes the food is great... but don't worry Mario fans, he and Nancy are all about the details. Our drinks were carried from the bar, the cheese dishes were carefully crafted and the orrechiette topped with fresh, crispy bread crumbs for an added texture that made the dish. It's all there.

So make the rezo, or walk in early early. You'll have a killer meal. The days of those who love terrific regional italian food missing out are over. I love many LA italian spots, but mark my words.... the king has arrived.

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Around the World In 80 Days

André is Back In The US And Has Stories To Tell




First, I guess an apology is in order. As some of you may know, I am producing the worldwide and domestic broadcast of LIVE EARTH on 7.7.07, and the workload and schedule of this project hasn’t allowed me the opportunity to contribute to this blog as often as I wish… so I’ll use this opportunity to talk about world travel and eating across the globe.

Not to ignore New York or LA where much is happening on the scene…. In New York, where the Dept of Health continues its post-Taco Bell rat rampage, some of the city’s more famous spots continue to shutter...and then reopen. The NYC scene is the most vital and everchanging in the world today, so I would suggest you hit www.eater.com to stay on top of it.

In LA, where the newest Pinkberry location shares headlines with the stargazing at the insanely popular Mozza, the scene is heating up. Culver City is becoming a destination (did I actually say that?) and West Hollywood continues to blossom. While the new Katsuya may be the sexist joint in LA, this is a town where the new Dougboys location gets the same amount of press in the blogs.

Traveling around the world the last few months have been a culinary eye-opener for me… as I revisited several of my favorite spots, and discovered new gems. To try and keep these thoughts somewhat organized, lets blast through the world in an orderly fashion, shall we?

THE UNITED KINGDOM

Getting There:

My airline of choice remains Virgin Atlantic, where even a coach seat feels more special than some business class trips I have been on. On Virgin, Premium Economy is now the deal of all deals, as these seats have been exchanged for wider, more comfy reclining seats for a slightly higher price, and Upper Class… well, it’s simply the best class of service in the air today. Is there another airline that offers flat beds with duvets, order-at-will meals, a fully stocked bar and in flight massages? Thank you Sir Richard Branson.

What’s Great:
The pub scene remains unchanged, although a smoking ban is on the way. Still, is there nothing better than a plate of fish and chips with a cold pint in a pub that’s been around for 200 years? I think not. Sure, the Indian food remains the best in the world, the Chinese food in SoHo is killer and the mini celeb-chef community (Brian Turner, Gordan Ramsey, etc) continue their dominance, but the sum of these parts still equal a rather boring and lifeless scene compared to NYC, and Tokyo. Maybe this will never change.

What’s Not:
The money situation. Already expensive hotels and restaurants are now insane, thanks to the Pound dominance over the US dollar, now nearly 2-1. Broken down this means your taxi ride from Heathrow into the city will cost you $100 US dollars, a decent lunch $40 and a pint of beer $7. Ouch.

Final Thought:

Not much has changed here in the last 10 years, other than the giant wheel on the Thymes and the decline of the dollar. Do yourself a favor and hit Spain, where the scene is a bit spicier. Hell, Paris may be a better deal these days.

SOUTH AFRICA


Getting There:
A number of airlines fly into Johannesburg, but again I recommend Virgin from London if you begin this trip on the other side of the Atlantic. The red-eye flight from London is smooth, and waking up with your feet on South African soil is cool as it gets.

What’s Great:
Jo’berg (as it is referred to) is one of the most evolving cities in the world today. Known for its natural beauty, extreme poverty and renown crime streaks, the city is bursting at the seams with creative expression… evolving from a society now free of apartheid. The warmth of the people in South Africa is infectious, and their climb to become recognized as one of the world’s great destinations is inevitable.


Not knowing much about South African food, I was lured to “The Butcher Shop”, one of the more famous eateries in the country, at Nelson Mandela Square. Having been told that the beef would be some of the best I had ever eaten, I was skeptical…. I mean, I live in NYC.. give me a break.

Well, I stand corrected. This restaurant serves the best steak I have ever put in my mouth.

The secret? A small farm outside of Jo’berg that raises the cattle. The aging process. The preparation. Flawless. I’ve had Argentinean beef, Kobe beef, USDA Prime. Forget them all. This is the real thing. On top of the astounding quality of the meal itself, I scarfed down a large steak, giant baked white sweet potato, asparagus, 2 glasses of wine and desert for $37.25. And that was with a generous tip. Amazing.

What’s Not:
Well, there are many things not great, although signs point to continual improvement. The poverty is obvious as you drive through the city. The poor line the streets in affluent neighborhoods selling wares and cooking food on the sidewalks for those who work for the rich. Safety is a concern. Like in all cities, you need to be careful in Jo’berg as the areas change quickly.

Final Thought:
As I was leaving South Africa, I was already thinking about a return trip. For all of the problems here, the people and natural beauty are too much to overcome. There is a love of life and enduring spirit here that makes us pause in thought… this is the place where we evolved as humans (Maropeng is an hour north, where many believe is the birthplace of man). Humans shares over 99% of the same DNA… and nowhere is this more evident than South Africa… where you feel part of one human race.

GERMANY

Getting There:

Take your pick. Americans can fly from the US into many Germany cities (I was in Hamburg). Inter-euro flights on airlines like Easy Jet are cheap and fast. Train travel may be the most efficient in the world, next to Japan.

What’s Great:

Well, I have a soft place in my heart for Germany, and it’s mainly the street food. Yes, the wiener.

Is there anything better than walking up to an immaculate streetside kiosk, and ordering a hot, grilled bratwurst with mustard and crusty roll? Or a currywurst, in its sweet and tangy sauce? I think not. Forget German restaurants. I’m thrilled drinking cold German beer and eating off of the street.

Did I mention that Germany is clean? Having been to Berlin many times, my first trip to Hamburg was a completely different experience. This is one of the greenest cities on the planet, with lush, leafy trees lining nearly every city street. The inland lakes are stunning, and the Hamburg residents take every advantage of their natural surroundings by crowding beer gardens and cafes from morning to night.

Oh yea, you can buy just about any shoe on earth here. Hamburg folks dress to impress and love their shoes. Not to mention this is the birthplace and home of Nivea, so skincare and cosmetics are a big deal, too.

What’s Not:
Where Germans in Hamburg are polite, they are not downright friendly like the Italians or Polish. Don’t expect to get invited into someone’s house for dinner. Additionally, our friends in Hamburg don’t cater to english tourists. You’ll rarely find menus in english unless you are in a touristy area, and that’s if you are lucky.

Final Thought:

It’s all about the sausage. And the cigars. Yep, you can find good deals on Cubans here, so remember to take the bands off when you walk them through customs. Germany is a wonderful place to visit, but this isn’t one of those trips you begin looking for people with your same last name in the phone book or pretend you are apartment hunting. Enjoy and move on….

JAPAN

Getting There:
I prefer ANA Airlines. The folks at ANA may have the best service in the air, and the business class cabin looks like someone’s apartment. It’s that clean and nice. And you get cool ass Japanese slippers, too. The seats are built into beautifully crafted wooden encasements that include privacy dividers. The seats are comfy, even for those of us of large girth, and the food is terrific.

What’s Great:
Well, Japanese service. I’ve said for many years that Asian hotels set the world standard in service, and I still believe it. My stay at the Hilton Tokyo wasn’t the Park Hyatt in terms of opulence, but was terrific in it’s own right.

The other thing that makes Japan remarkable is its ability for the ancient and modern to coexist side by side. Make no mistake about it, Japan leads the world in technology and they use it in all facets of daily life, including urban planning. It’s fascinating to watch the millions of people in Tokyo move effortlessly through the city, and even more amazing to stumble across a Buddhist Temple a block away from a Starbucks.

Food wise, Japan is loaded with what you might think… sushi and noodles. My favorite dish, Tonkatsu, or a fried pork cutlet with steamed rice and Japanese pickles, is such a staple that there are outlets in the city that serve only that dish. There are still street side robato bars with tender, marinated grilled meats as well as steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste. But believe me, there is more to Tokyo than traditional Japanese fare.

American and Euro-styled cooking is hot in Japan. Four and Five star restaurants abound in the city… and now more than ever, young upcoming chefs are traveling to Japan to craft their trades.

What’s Not:

Well, being from North America, jet lag still remains the #1 challenge of a trip to Japan, closely followed by the overwhelming amount of non-english signage. Did you see Lost in Translation? To top it all off, the longer then life airplane trip over is followed by an hour and a half train trip to the city from Narita Airport. Ouch. Lastly, as easy as it is to find people on the street who speak English in Europe, it is equally as difficult in Japan. You’ll be fine in tourist areas, but veer off the beaten path and you are on your own.

Final Thought:
I simply love Japan. From the modernist buildings and amazing hotels, to their ties to ancient tradition, this is a country that everyone should visit, if only once. Once the most expensive city in the world, Tokyo is now somewhat affordable… opening the doors to many who are now making it a destination of a lifetime.

CHINA


Getting There:
Good luck. It’s so far that no matter who you choose, your butt is going to be on fire by the time you get there.

What’s Great:

My trip to Shanghai was an adventure. I had been to Hong Kong, but let me tell you, Shanghai is about as different from Hong Kong as two cities can be.

Shanghai is the fastest growing business hub in the world today. In fact, 1/5 of the world’s construction cranes are in Shanghai. It’s taken Shanghai to build as many buildings in 12 years as it took NYC to build in 40. The buildings in Shanghai are unlike any you have ever seen… incredibly modern, gleaming structures, that look like a hybrid and Manhattan and Las Vegas. Really.

The hotels in Shanghai range from just OK to downright fantastic. The Westin Bund, a 10 minute stroll from the famous “Bund” walk, is an incredible facility with what I firmly believe is one of the best breakfast and lunch buffets in the world today. Imagine a buffet scattered throughout an opulent, lofted hotel lobby, that includes every item in an American, English and Japanese breakfast… and then add Chinese dumplings, steamed buns, noodles, tender pork, chicken, well you get the picture. Unreal. We ate for 2 hours.

Outside of the hotel, the experience is one of a kind. Walking the streets of Shanghai, vendors wok noodles and veggies on the sidewalk, shopkeepers water their produce and salesmen hawk cheap wares and cigarettes. I visited one of the most expensive restaurants in China as a special guest, and was rewarded with a setting that resembled a palace from the Ming Dynasty… almost like a movie set. While the food was delicious, the meal of my trip came later in the evening (or about 2:30am in the morning when the restaurants are still doing business) when I ate the best salt and pepper crab I have ever tasted in my life. Did I mention the pork dumplings? Wow.

By the way, the stuff I bought on the street was 1/10th the price of the hotel and airport shops. Do some street shopping and you’ll be well rewarded. I filled a bag with goodies and had spent $11 bucks.

What’s Not:
Getting around ain’t easy. Additionally the airport is an hour out of town, and in the middle of nowhere. Do yourself a favor and arrange a pickup from your hotel before you leave. Also, hailing cabs can be tricky, as the color of the cab usually dictates the expertise of the driver. Consult your hotel staff before you start hailing cabs off of the street in Shanghai. Believe it or not, many have no idea where even some simple places are located (or at least they pretend not to).

Final Thought:
Go. Go to China. They love meeting Americans, and they love selling their wares. Also, many of the misconceptions you may have about the far east will be put to rest. China has much to offer the world, and we should all be connected with their society as 1 in 6 humans live here. This is a fascinating culture, and I continue to understand more and more about them on each visit. Here is your opportunity to do the Olympics and visit an amazing place.


BRASIL

Getting There:
Any way you can, that doesn’t include a flight on Delta, the worst international carrier on the planet. If I meet one more 60 year old flight attendant, I’m going to jump out of a window.

What’s Great:

Well, Rio starts and ends with its beaches. The beach life here is hard to put into words, as life itself revolves around the sand on Copacabana, Impanema, Leblon and Bahia beaches. They hit the sand at dawn and remain until the wee hours of the morning, when they go home, take a nap, and repeat. They love life and enjoy simple pleasures.

Food in Brasil is rather straight forward… its all about meat. Churrasaria Porcao remains the favorite of the locals in Rio (you can find locations in NYC and Miami as well) but recently, more international friendly if not upscale restaurants have been stealing the headlines. That said, you can get the cutting edge fusion food anywhere, so why not embrace the meat? When in Rome.

What’s Not:

Well, it’s hard to look at the window from the ride into town from the airport without a lump in your throat. The poverty is so overwhelming, you can’t imagine anyone living in those conditions. Brasil has a long way to go to elevate their social classes and they know it.

Additionally, traffic is a major problem here, and continues to worsen. As the population grows, the roads continue to crumble… meaning that city leaders will need to take serious measures, and soon.

Final Thought:

Rio is unlike any city in the world. The terrain is special…and the city rests within the steep cliffs and green mountains of what you could call a visual paradise. Even though crime continues to be a real problem, you can have a safe and enjoyable trip as long as you stay in main areas and surround yourself with lots of people.


***** Do you know about Live Earth? To learn more, logon to www.LiveEarth.org and watch for our shows on all of the NBC television networks on 7.7.07.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

News and Notes from LA and NYC!

With an hour to kill and a dirty martini, André is back in business....


First, an apology for the hiatus… your food-sleuth has been traveling the world, working on new projects… which means new scoop for you!

Note: in the next six weeks, your beloved blogger will personally visit restaurants in London, Johannesberg, Hamburg, Tokyo, Shanghai and Rio, so get ready to read about some crazy eats!...

What’s the latest in LA and NYC?


LA
The LA scene is a buzz with the rumor that Jonathan Morr may bring Bond Street to the Thompson Hotel… Culver City’s “Fraiche” is off and running, and my visit on a weekday night was met with the pleasant surprise that the locals have been waiting for another hip spot (other than Ford’s) to open and serve edible food…. Does anyone else wish that Barefoot on 3rd Street had better food?.... my best meal of the month award goes to “Katsuya” in Brentwood…. Being a longtime fan of the Ventura Blvd outlet, I was skeptical on my visit… and have come to realize the following. Are the prices nearly double? Yes. It the menu better? Yes. Do they nail the crispy tuna roll? Yes. It the décor better? Yes. Will I go back and drink swanky cocktails? Yes. Nuff said... I have a full review coming next week. In the valley, McCormick and Schmicks seems to be doing gangbuster business in their newer Burbank digs… but I found their service profoundly lacking compared to their other stores, and the food was average on my visit as well… and note to management: during crab season, try and serve some crabs, you ding-a-lings.....another Le Pain Quotidien has opened in LA, this one across the street from my pad on Robertson and Burton Way…. a welcome neighborhood addition, the place was buzzing the moment it opened…. Does anyone from LA actually eat at The Ivy?.... Did you know JetBlue serves Dunkin Donuts coffee? Now only if they could get my plane to land on time… and finally, when the hell will Osteria Mozza open? I am a loyal guy, but month-in-advance reservations for the pizza place next door is ridiculous... you are printing money in NYC, call the bank already....


NYC
In Case You Missed It……. Chumley’s, the famous speakeasy in the West Village nearly imploded. The much-loved fireplace caved in, as did a few walls, and now the place is closed for repairs. Insiders tell me this could take 6 months….. Morandi may have weathered Bruni, and garnered a star… but honestly, the food is just so-so. It’s a loud, hey-look-at-me type of room, and those who want to nosh on really good stuff usually leave disappointed…. Speaking of Bruni, the feud between he and Chodorow may have died down, but the Kobe Club will still be the victim in all of this. The overpriced, slightly scary Disney-esqe steakhouse seems to be floundering a bit as their weeknight business continues to slip (you’ll find me across the street at Quality Meats)… and word has it that Chodorow has already begun concepting replacements for the spot, which has a locale that could really work, if they can get the concept right…. As you may have read, this blogger was pleased with the food at Café Gray recently (but not the service), and is very excited that Landmarc has opened in the Time Warner Center…. Finally, a place to eat that won’t set you back 2 Gucci wallets and a Coach purse….. Super-Mario has opened B & B at the Venetian in Las Vegas, and my dinner there last week was superb. What is it? Think 20% Lupa, 60% Babbo and 20% Del Posto, and then take Babbo prices and double them. This is Vegas, remember? By the way, longtime Vegas favorite Delmonico hasn’t slipped an inch, and continues to serves the best steak in sin city…. (I suggest you check out the newer restaurants at the Venetian next time you are there)…. Speaking of Vegas, the Aladdin Hotel is no more, and has now been officially replaced by the Planet Hollywood Hotel and Casino. Sure they spent millions on the refurb, and put a Pinks Hot Dog Cart next to the slots, but with high end dining consisting of a PF Chang’s, this will be the last you’ll hear of them on this page (but thanks to the casino, as I left with $250 of their money)…. NYC’s spot for best wine dinner “Cité” has officially closed… as has “Aegean” on the UWS…. (do I smell another Bank of America branch?)… this just in, New Yorkers have found Garrett’s Popcorn, the legendary Chicago mainstay (outside Penn Station)…. Trader Joe’s continues to gain customers in NYC, and the wine prices are driving local wine shops mad…. Tribeca Tavern will be serving up BBQ on the weekends for a while…. Funky LES hotel THOR is having severe kitchen problems with the exit of their chef(s)… let’s hope they can remedy that, and add something new down their, as the neighborhood couldn’t he hotter….

Sunday, April 1, 2007

Locanda Veneta: Aging Beautifully

The Old Standby Just Gets Better




If only every neighborhood had a Locanda Veneta.

On assignment in Los Angeles, I find myself a leisurely 4-minute walk from this Beverly Hills gem… and believe me, I couldn’t be happier.

It was only 4 years ago when I lived in Los Angeles, and was use to making the trek over Coldwater from the Valley to have a meal here on occasion… but living in the Valley then I didn’t have a chance to visit with any regularity. In the coming months, I have a feeling I’ll be in once a week.

Locanda is the quintessential neighborhood spot. A small, well appointed room… friendly, almost family-like staff… and terrific food.


The room itself is shockingly small, but quaint. The front door literally drops you into the dining room… and the talented kitchen can peek across a ledge into the bustling busy dining space. I’ve always been amazed at how a kitchen this compact can dish out a menu this robust… and they still amaze. It takes some serious skill to be able to pull this off this well night after night.

The details at Locanda Veneta are a given. Upon being seated, you’ll find a creamy bowl of pesto spread and a basket of fresh crusty bread… but it’s the wine and daily menu that have brought the crowds back for years.

On this night, I started with a bottle of Row 11 Pino, priced slightly higher than I anticipated… but happily consumed. Row 11 is a real find for those of you who search for Pino Noir values at retail… and I highly recommend this wine. Go find a bottle of the 2004… it should run you about $34.

For an appetizer I ordered a dish of mild, crisp polenta cakes topped with caramelized onions and sautéed shrimp. The dish was well prepared and nearly perfect. The balance of the corn powered polenta with the sweet onions and buttery shrimp make a great marriage on the same plate.

My main course fell from the evenings off the menu selections… parpadelle pasta with lamb ragu. This dish was simple and flavorful and just what I expected. Solid, filling and just right.

We also dined on delightful beef carpaccio as well as their nearly famous gnocchi, both of which were well received.


In the day and age of “let’s get to the newest joint in town”, it’s easy to overlook those who have been punching the clock seemingly forever. If you haven’t been to Locanda lately, make a trip over. It’s wearing well and still delivering great bang for your buck… wonderfully prepared Italian fare with the feeling you’re dining with friends.


Locanda Veneta
Italian

8638 W 3rd St, Los Angeles 90048
At S Willaman Dr

Reservations at OpenTable.com

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Mastro's : LA's Real Steakhouse

It's Fun When You're Good... And You Know It



To visit Fork New York: Click Here!


The days of the affordable steakhouse are officially gone. (note: by saying this, I am not qualifying Sizzler or Bonanza or Outback as real steakhouses).

That’s right. If you want a great steak… the way you want it… at a good price… you need to hop in your car, go to Whole Foods or the local butcher and buy it yourself (still not dirt cheap mind you, but if bought in bulk, portioned and frozen, can be a great deal).

Having succumbed to this fact, I now approach high-brow, mahogany-clad steakhouses with one simple attitude. Bring it on.

Having spent the last year and a half in New York, I’ve been schooled on tried and true steak palaces. From Lugar’s to Quality Meats to The Palm, Too… New Yorkers love their steak and will pay premium prices for the good stuff.

That’s why my recent trip to Mastro’s was one I was really looking forward to… and it didn’t disappoint. It is a big, dark, sophisticated, expensive “joint”, and they know it. (smirk☺).


Now, having this chip on your shoulder can be hard to manage for some establishments,… but not Mastro’s. They wear it well. And why not? With a top shelf bar upstairs to accompany two floors of steak swilling floor space, they make more than their share of dollars… so, if you’ve got it… flaunt it.

This might have been a harder review if I would have found the food at Mastro’s fair to average… but it’s not.

The problem at Mastro’s is simply deciding what to eat.

The apps range from loads of fresh seafood to steak sashimi, to specialty salads, to stuffed mushrooms to caviar.

We opted for a “create your own” seafood tower that included lobsters, stone crab claws, jumbo shrimp and blue point oysters. It was spectacular.

At this point, dinner is the focus… and with a great menu of seafood items available (tuna, salmon, lobster, etc) focus on the beef. Mastro’s is one of a handful of places where you can enjoy a bone-in Ribeye, a veal porterhouse or even a lamb porterhouse. Of course, the filet, NY Strip, bone-in KC strip, Rack of Lamb and Prime Rib don’t look so bad either… giving you a tougher-than-you-though decision. All in all, you can choose from over 15 cuts.

Loving side dishes as I do, I went with the slightly smaller but delicious Petite Filet… hoping to save room.

It was a tender, juicy cut… perfectly prepared and not in need of a sauce of any kind. Just enough.

The sides are another story. You can go hog wild here… and I swear I will return to this restaurant and have a cocktail and nothing but side dishes.

I won’t list the entire menu, but a trip to Mastro’s without their famous Lobster Mashed Potatoes would be a mistake (think massive bowl of buttermilk mash topped with sliced, fresh Maine lobster and butter…. damn).


What else? Well, Gorgonzola Mac and Cheese, potatoes every way you can prepare them (fried, creamed, shoestring, au gratin, wasabi mashed, baked, lyonnaise… you get the picture) and veggies like sugar snap peas, spinach, corn, broccoli and asparagus.

As you can guess the dessert menu is equally as decadent, but who has the room? I opted to sip on my unfinished glass of perfect Pino Noir, which made for the perfect ending of a terrific meal.

Yes, it’s a celeb scene, high priced and slightly cocky… but with food this good, what the hell. I’m in.

Advice: Make a resrvation. If you decide to just “drop by”, chances are you’ll be eating at the Johnny Rockets down the street.


Mastro's Steakhouse
Steakhouses, Seafood

246 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills 90210
Btwn Dayton & Clifton Way

Phone: 310-888-8782
Fax: 310-858-7036

Monday, March 26, 2007

Gulfstream : Fish Done Right

To Visit Andre's blog: Fork New York, CLICK HERE!



It’s not often a dish moves me to my computer… but a recent visit to Los Angeles mini-chain spot Gulfstream that simply put, pushed my buttons.

The restaurant is a spot created by the fine folks who brought us wonderchain Houston’s. But believe me, this surprising spot doesn’t eat like a run of the mill chain restaurant. This location (one of 3) is located in Century City… the others are in Newport Beach, and low and behold… New Orleans.


On a rainy, cold Los Angeles afternoon, I found myself planted at the bar at Gulfstream… a beautiful green speckled granite and marble creation. Flanked by the obligatory flat screen televisions, I expected a Houston’s type menu and a chain like experience.

Boy, was I surprised.

First, this is a spot that knows who they are. The drinks are perfect, the food is dynamite, and the service is suberb. Isn’t that just about everything?

Chain or not, nailing all of these would bring you back to an IHOP… but when the menu features fresh fish (and I mean really fresh, as in filleted in the kitchen daily), cold fresh shucked oysters and killer recipes, then you have something.

My meal started with a frosty martini (Ketel One, up dirty is the call), mixed to perfection. The menu itself is small, but robust with choice. Fresh fish, a steak, ribs… you get the picture. Throw in a raw bar and few signature salads and you have fun picking a dish.

I started with the peel and eat shrimp… as most Cajuns will. The shrimp were large, firm and full of flavor. You get 12 of the suckers. But what makes the dish are the extraordinary sauces… a homemade tarter sauce that I would swear I had at Mr. B’s in New Orleans, and a homemade cocktail, that was on the mark. Both were out of the ordinary, but so well spiced with fresh herbs and spices, I could have enjoyed them with a slice of bread.

About this time, I asked for a glass of water…. what showed up was a frozen milk glass with an ice cold milk jug full of crystal clear water. It’s all in the details.

The main course was a special, but I later found out a dish so popular, it shows up almost nightly. The dish… a filet of Grilled Red Snapper, resting on top of a mound of buttermilk mashed potatoes, in a Cajun cream with Florida Rock Shrimp. On the side, a heaping helping of fresh cut coleslaw, with a dressing from heaven.

The fish was so fresh, I would guess the poor guy was swimming in the Gulf yesterday. It was seasoned and grilled to perfection. The potatoes were spectacular on their own, and balanced the dish perfectly… supporting a spicy cream that complimented but didn’t dominate our friend, the red snapper. The shrimp are icing on the cake.

I would have loved to had dessert, but after licking this plate clean I just flat ran out of tummy space. I did find room for a double espresso that was prepared in the same way the rest of the meal was, perfectly.

I have never been a fan of chain restaurants, but if this is the new standard, I’ll rethink my stance. Gulfstream was a complete surprise, and I can tell you that I’ll be back….looking for the special of the day.

Having had a fantastic slaw, I thought I would also share on of my very best recipes… I bring this dish to parties and watch people inhale this stuff. Enjoy!

Andre’s Favorite ColeSlaw Dressing

1 tablespoon fresh, finely minced garlic
1 ¼ cups mayo
1/3 cup yellow mustard
3 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon black pepper

Yield 2 cups


SLAW

15 cups shredded green cabbage
2 cups shredded purple cabbage
1 ½ cups finely chopped yellow onions
¾ cup finely chopped green bell peppers
2 tablespoons green onions
2 cups of coleslaw dressing



In a large mixing bowl, combine green cabbage, purple cabbage, onions, bell peppers, and green onions. Using hands, toss well. Add dressing, toss and serve.

Fire Up The Stove, We're Cooking Creole in LA

Fill Your Printer With Paper, These Are Recipes You're Gonna Print!





With thousands of restaurants in NYC and Los Angeles, you could certainly make a case for eating out just about every night.

Of course, this line of thinking can also make a substantial dent in your wallet, so shopping and eating at home can be a good thing, too. And as you well know, we would do more of this if in fact we could get over the biggest hurdle... what are we having?

Well, creole and cajun cooking is custom fit for this delimma, as whatever you cook, you'll likely be eating it for a few days.

That's because Louisiana folks cook with two things in mind. First, they don't know who the hell is showing up for dinner, so you think of how many you may be serving, and then double it. Second, they know that today's good gumbo, will be tomorrow AMAZING gumbo, so they make enough to enjoy on day 2.. and 3... etc.

So, this week, we head into the kitchen, with a list of recipes I have gathered from previous posts on this blog... and a few new ones. They are really easy, and very authentic.... so make your grocery list, do a little shopping, and go for it!

Here are a few of my favorites.

Yes, It's a bit hot for this one, but what the hell... what's life without a bowl of gumbo?



Andre’s Gumbo Like I Like It

(Shrimp and Okra Version)

4- 5 Quarts Chicken Stock
4 pounds frozen okra
1 lrg can of diced tomatoes
1 regular can of diced tomatoes
2 large white onions, diced fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1⁄2 teaspoon chopped garlic, fine
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
3⁄4 cup all purpose flour
3⁄4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoon of lea and perrin’s
2 tablespoons crystal hot sauce (or frank’s)
1 1⁄2 tablespoons of creole seasoning (Emerils or Tony’s)
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon thyme
2-3 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped parsley, fine
4 pounds peeled medium shrimp
Chopped green onions


In a separate pot, heat 3 tbl vegetable oil, and sauté white onions. Add garlic, frozen okra and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium low heat until tender (at least an hour, if not longer). Okra should be very tender and want to break up. In a large stockpot, heat oil (3/4 cup) and add flour to make roux. Stir constantly over medium heat, making sure not to burn. Bring to desired color… peanut butter color is recommended for best flavor. Once desired color is reached, whisk in chicken stock, 4 qts first and save the rest if needed (chicken base dissolved in water can also be used , but NOT bullion). Add seasonings (wet and dry) and kitchen bouquet for desired color. Add okra mixture and bring to boil. Reduce to low simmer, and cook for 1 1⁄2 hours. Last half hour, add shrimp and parsley and simmer and very low temp, not to overcook shrimp. Serve in bowls, topped with a scoop of cooked long grain rice and top with sprinkle of green onion.

Gumbo is best if cooked day before. Make sure to cool completely before storing in fridge.



The perfect everyday, all day, what do I want to eat dish, Jambalaya.

André’s Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

2 cups oil or BACON GREASE
5 lbs uncooked rice (mahatma is fine)
6 pounds chicken (thighs work great, also legs)
6 pounds sausage, sliced
4 lbs white onions, chopped fine
2 bunches green onions, chopped fine
2 pounds celery (2 bunches), chopped fine
2 pounds (6-8) green bell peppers, chopped fine
3 tbs. Minced Garlic
15 cups chicken broth or stock
½ cup crystal hot sauce
½ cup lea and perrins
1 bunch parsley
Salt
Pepper



DIRECTIONS

Season your raw chicken with Cajun seasoning (Tonys, etc) Cayenne pepper will also work. If using bacon grease, fry one pound of bacon very well in you heated jambalaya pot. Remove bacon, save and eat with your beer while you cook. Add you chicken pieces to hot grease. Fry until golden brown, remove and set aside. Add sausage and cook until pieces are nice and browned. Remove sausage. Remove almost all grease from pot. Add onions, celery, garlic and bell pepper and cook until golden brown. If onions start to stick, add small amount of water. Be careful not to burn onions. When onion mixture is cooked, add chicken and sausage, chicken stock, salt, pepper, lea and perrins, hot sauce, parsely, salt and pepper to taste (maybe 2 tbs of salt and 2 pepper) and green onions. If you need a darker color, you can use kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil and stir. Add rice and stir again. Cook approximately 20 minutes on low heat. Remove lid and turn rice over. Do not stir a lot! Replace lid and cook approximately 10 more minutes. Then, do not open pot….turn off the fire, leave the lid on, and let Jambalaya rest 20 MINUTES with the LID ON. Remove lid and fluff Jambalaya. Should be perfect!!!

Serve with white or French bread and Miller Lite, and you too will be a coonass.

** you can adjust the rice and chicken stock…. Just remember to use 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice.



You have heard me talk about it... here's your chance to do it yourself!

Louisiana Boudin

2 1/2 pounds pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 pound pork liver, rinsed in cool water
2 quarts water
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
1/2 cup chopped celery
4 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup chopped green onions tops, (green part only)
6 cups cooked medium-grain rice
1 1/2-inch diameter, casings, about 4 feet in length

In a large sauce pan, combine the pork butt, pork liver, water, onions, garlic, bell peppers, celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring the liquid up to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 1/12 hours, or until the pork and liver are tender. Remove from the heat and drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the broth. Using a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch die, grind the pork mixture. 1/2 cup of the parsley, and 1/2 cup of the green onions, together. Turn the mixture into a mixing bowl. Stir in the rice, remaining salt, cayenne, black pepper, parsley, and green onions. Add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and mix thoroughly. Either using a feeding tube or a funnel, stuff the sausage into the casings and make 3-inch links. Bring 1 gallon of salted water up to a boil. Poach the sausage for about 5 minutes, or until the sausage is firm to the touch and plump. Remove from the water and allow to cool.



The following recipes can be gathered to make one amazing meal.


Andre’s Pan Fried Chicken

3 pounds chicken breasts and legs
1 egg
2/3 cup buttermilk
2 cups flour
Salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup lard or crisco
1 cup solid white vegetable shortening

Let chicken warm to room temperature. Wipe with a damp cloth. In a wide bowl, beat egg with buttermilk.

Place flour, salt and peppers in a brown paper bag. In a large skillet (preferably cast iron) heat lard and shortening. Dip each piece of chicken into the buttermilk-egg mixture and place in a brown paper bag. Close top of bag and shake until piece is well coated. Remove, and repeat for each piece.

When shortening is hot (375 degrees F on a deep-fat thermometer), ease chicken into pan and cook over high heat, turning so both sides cook evenly. Do not crowd more than a few pieces of chicken into pan at one time. When chicken is light gold on both sides, turn down heat to low and partially cover skillet. Cook 15 minutes, turning chicken once.

Remove chicken and drain on brown paper bags. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6 to 8, or André and his brother Allen.


...and on the side....

White Bean and Corn Relish


2 pound white beans, soaked overnight and rinsed
4 bay leaf
4 cups freshly shucked corn (or canned shoepeg works great)
4 tablespoons chopped shallots
Olive oil for cooking
2 cups small diced cucumber
8 tablespoons small diced red bell pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
4 tablespoon champagne vinegar
8 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
Creole spice(your house blend!)

In a small sauce pan cook the beans until tender: drain and rinse. Cooking time depends on how old the beans are. In a small saute pan cook the corn and the shallots in hot oil until tender, about 3 minutes. Season with creole spice. Set aside to cool. In a small bowl combine the cooled beans, cooled corn and shallots, cucumbers, peppers, thyme, vinegar and oil. Season highly with house or Creole spice.
Yield: 12 cups


Andre’s Favorite ColeSlaw Dressing

1 tablespoon fresh, finely minced garlic
1 ¼ cups mayo
1/3 cup yellow mustard
3 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon black pepper

Yield 2 cups


SLAW

15 cups shredded green cabbage
2 cups shredded purple cabbage
1 ½ cups finely chopped yellow onions
¾ cup finely chopped green bell peppers
2 tablespoons green onions
2 cups of coleslaw dressing

In a large mixing bowl, combine green cabbage, purple cabbage, onions, bell peppers, and green onions. Using hands, toss well. Add dressing, toss and serve.



LSU TIGER JALAPENO CORNBREAD

21/2 cups yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 tbl. sugar
1 tsp. salt
2 tsps. baking powder
8 ozs. cream-style corn
1/2 cup chopped pimento
3/4 cup chopped jalapeño peppers
3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese
Buttermilk
Oil

1. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together except buttermilk and oil. Add buttermilk, stirring in, until you achieve a medium-thick batter.

2. Pour batter into a well-oiled cast-iron skillet and bake at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center.

Enjoy as a side dish with red beans, white beans, friend catfish, or you name it.



OK, It ain't cajun, but I love it just the same.....

André’s Favorite Meat Ragu


2 lbs. lean ground beef

2 tbls. olive oil

1 lb. ground pork or 1 medium pkg. of pork spareribs

1 medium red onion, chopped

2 cups chopped yellow onions

1 cup chopped bell pepper

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb. Italian link sausage (I like the spicy here, but sweet works well, too)

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato paste

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato sauce

2 (10-oz.) cans tomato purée (San Marzano if you can swing it)

1 (10-oz.) can Rotel diced tomatoes and green chilies

4 tbls. dark brown sugar

3 bay leaves

1/2 tsp. dried basil

1/2 tsp. dried oregano, crushed

1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, crushed

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning

1/2 tsp. Italian seasoning

1 tsp. Tony Chachere's Original Seasoning
(or your favorite cajun seasoning)
1 tsp. kosher salt

4 cups water (use some to rinse out tomato paste cans before adding water to pot)

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/2 bunch fresh chopped curly parsley

1. In a large Dutch oven, stew pot or Le Creset pot, brown ground beef in olive oil. Remove browned meat from pot and set aside. If using ground pork, brown in same pot. Remove from pot and set aside.

2. Add onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic and sauté until transparent.

3. While the meats are browning and vegetables are sautéing, cut sausage into 1/2-inch pieces and cook in a 350-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. Drain oil and set aside.

4. Add tomato paste to the Dutch oven (my large le cruset pot is perfect!) with the sautéed vegetables. If using spareribs, also add at this time. Stir and blend for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to let the tomato paste burn or stick.

5. Add the tomato sauce, tomato purée, all seasonings and Rotel tomatoes and cook on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring gently to keep mixture from sticking. Add fresh chopped parsley, simmer on low for an additional hour. Add chicken broth to get the gravy the right thickness... the way you like it!



This one is one of my old stand-bys......


Andre’s Smothered Pork Chops

Sides: Put on a pot of white rice, and stew some okra or green beans with bacon and onion. Biscuit would be nicey-nice.

Serves 4 normal people, or Andre and his brother Allen.

4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, cut about 3/4-inch thick
Ground black pepper
Salt
1 tbl. olive oil
2 tbls. all-purpose flour
2 tbls. vegetable oil
2 medium onions, sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, thinly sliced
1 tbl. brown sugar
1 cup chicken broth
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 baked sweet potato, cut into chunks
3 tbls. fresh minced parsley
Cooked rice

1. Season pork chops with pepper and salt.

2. Sear (brown) chops in heated olive oil over medium-high heat. Remove chops, set aside.

3. Make a roux in the same skillet with the flour and oil added to the browned bits left in the skillet from the chops. Cook to a medium-brown color.

4. Stir onions, garlic, bell pepper and carrot slices into the hot roux and stir and turn vegetables until they are coated with the roux. Lower heat and put top on skillet to sweat the vegetables for about 10 minutes as they brown.

5. Return chops and any juices from the chops to the skillet. Mix brown sugar into the vegetables and chops, cover skillet and cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Uncover skillet and add chicken broth, Worcestershire sauce, chunks of sweet potato and additional seasoning if desired. Stir to make sure the vegetables are covered evenly with the broth. Cover again and simmer for 30 minutes or until chops are tender and the gravy has thickened nicely.

7. If the gravy gets too thick as it simmers, add a couple of tablespoons of water to thin it.

8. Sprinkle chopped parsley over chops and gravy and serve with cooked rice.

Note: Sometimes I add a can of good quality tomatoes when I stir in the chicken broth. This dish reheats well, but why not just finish it off?

Mozza: It Really Is That Good

"Mozza" Collaboration Produces LA's Best Pizza, Period.


It was just a matter of time the look, feel and taste of a trendy NYC restaurant landed in Los Angeles… and low and behold, it’s arrived.

Sure, Nancy Silverton is well known for her stellar Campanile, but why did it take this long for partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich to make their way west?

Whatever the reason, it has been worth the wait.


Mozza is truly a slice of heaven… and believe it or not, Nancy and Mario have reinvented the pizza.

Walking into Mozza, I immediately likened the room to something you might discover in the Grenwich Village area of New York. The lights are reminiscent of Mario’s OTTO, and the room painted boldly.

NOTE: For those of you wanting to experience Mozza soon, walk away from the computer now and call for a reservation… you’re gonna need it.

The menu at Mozza also reminds you of OTTO, except the dishes are wonderfully different. There are no pasta dishes at Mozza (the Osteria opens in a few months) but the menu is loaded with antipasti, insalate, sliced cured meats, bruschette, panini… and of course… incredible pizza.


Antipasti is far from normal at Mozza, with selections that range from crispy, delectable Fried Squash Bottoms with Ricotta… to more tradidtional Roasted Beets with Hazelnuts. Salad dishes are appealing, but with the delicious meats including Coppa, Lardo (made from the back of the pig and is prepared by first cutting the meat and treating the individual pieces with salt and spices such as cinnamon) and Proscuitto, as well as White Bean Bruschette… well, you need a bigger stomach.

As good as all this stuff is, the pizza is the star. One pizza is individual sized (cut into 4 nice sized pieces) but if you don’t order several and share, you’ll miss the boat.

At the top of the list you’ll find a simple tomato, olive oil and oregano version… and then it gets fantastic. Fennel sausage, panna and red onion…. Littleneck clams, garlic, oregano and cheese….Lambs quarters with cacao di roma…. Long cooked broccoli, caciocavallo and pepperocini…. Lardo, rosemary and olive oil… spicy salami, mozzarella and chilis…. and the list goes on and on.


I wish I could liken this pizza to another, but honestly it isn’t quite like anything I have ever had. The toppings are well seasoned and perfect.. and the tomato sauce sweetened unmistakably by San Marzano tomatoes… but the crust is magnificent. Imagine a two layered thin and crispy/chewy pastry dough. Not to tough… and just the right balance of flavor to hold what’s on top. It’s unique… and downright delicious.
I am giddy that Mozza has opened to such acclaim, and even happier that I’ll have a taste of NYC while on business here in LA… I only wish they’d open one on the Upper West Side!

Enjoy Mozza. It’s a gem of a spot that will certainly become a LA mainstay.

Chipotlé : Finally, Someone Gets It

Why Did It Take So Long To Figure It Out?



It’s true. Fast food has become a dirty word.

But when you think of fast food, don’t you think greasy burgers? Fries? Fried Chicken?

Well, there is a trend sweeping the country, and that’s fresher fast food. Yes, it still may be served on a paper plate or in a wax wrapper… but that doesn’t mean that it can’t taste good, and be good for you. Or at least… better for you.


This is where the new fresh-mex concept CHIPOTLE comes in. Like the earlier Baja Fresh, these guys hit the market with fresher that fresh ingredients, no freezers and no microwaves. This means your food was made fresh, likely a few minutes ago, and may actually taste that way.

Before I dive in, let me fill you in on a few things….

McDonald's owns 90% of Chipotle Mexican Grill.
Competitor Baja Fresh is owned by a subsidiary of Wendy's.
Competitor Qdoba was acquired by Jack in the Box in 2003.

This is a big deal in the food world. There is a lot of money to be made here.


The menu concept at Chipotle is genius. You have very little to choose from… a burrito, a fajita burrito, a burrito Bowl (or as they call it, Bol), soft or hard tacos… and a salad.

Once you figure out what it is you’ll have, you pick the meats. Marinated, grilled chicken, hand chopped steak, braised carnitas, spicy barbacoa (shredded beef… and my favorite) or vegetarian (surprisingly good).

The meats are not your run-of-the-mill fast food quality fare. This is marinated, grilled and stewed stuff. You'll be shocked.

From there, you tell your new friends behind the counter what condiments you’d like (fresh sliced romaine lettuce, pinto or delicious black beans, etc) and choose a homemade salsa.

The salsa is downright great. As I love the medium hot Tomatillo-Green Chili, the Roasted Chili Corn, Tomatillo-Red Chili and Fresh Tomato are all wunderbar.

To top things off, Chipotle makes their guacamole fresh by hand several times a day, along with great tortilla chips. A case of ice cold Mexican beers are available to wash it all down.


So why the big deal? Maybe because this place… a fast food place… nails all of the details. Why don’t other new stores (or older classics) get it? This average meal here will run you about $6.95, and in NYC, that is one helluva deal.

And if you can do the math, you can get your mind around this… you can get about 50,000 combinations with these 5 items. Uh, add sour cream please.

So, how popular is the place? There is a website dedicated to their fans… where you can chat, get coupons, find out about new locations and own the nutritional info (http://www.chipotlefan.com) . These guys are serious.

Otherwise, visit the real home at www.chipotle.com

Chipotle has smothered midtown Manhattan with a number of outlets… and more seem to keep coming. Do yourself a favor and hit one next time your hungry for something without the grease.

Oh yea, don’t forget the cold Modelo.


If you need the Guac now, here is the recipe!

Chipotle's Guacamole Recipe

Ingredients:
1 large ripe Hass avocado, peeled,pitted
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup finely chopped red onions
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 serrano chili, seeded,chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions:
1. Mash up avocado with a fork.
2. Add lime juice.
3. Add all other ingredients and blend well.
4. Serve with tortilla chips.

Does Puck Make The Cut?

Get Ready For Dinner and a Show in Los Angeles


I’ve imagined a lot of restaurant interiors in my lifetime… and had the opportunity to work with my wife Jami designing two of my own restaurants… one, a Cajun crabshack nestled into Chicago’s Gold Coast (Beignet’s Louisiana Kitchen) ; the other a Spanish tapas room in Baton Rouge’s reborn downtown district (The Lava Room).

My days of owning and operating restaurants are gone for good (ok, never say never)… but my appreciation for beautiful spaces continues to flourish.

Last week I had the opportunity to dine at the highly anticipated “CUT” Steakhouse, the uber-cool creation of Chef Wolfgang Puck and legendary architect Richard Meier.


Upon entering the space, it was obvious that the design team was going for “wow”, and most often, that’s what they get.

This place doesn’t look like any steakhouse I’ve ever seen. It’s a California cool space washed in pure whites and natural light. Instead of dark mahogany booths you get blond teakwood. Clubby leather chairs give way to Knoll-style chrome and mesh, and the amenities are clean and well appointed. Imagine having dinner in the Design Within Reach showroom. Or the lobby of MOMA.

It was a nice change.

For me, it’s always been about the food, and CUT does many things very well… and they have to. Being located in the Regent Beverly Wilshire (A Four Seasons Property) comes with a price tag, and believe you me, this place ain’t cheap. Not that a quality steakhouse should be… but there is expensive… and also “holy crap this is expensive.”

You’ll be hard pressed to find a dish on this menu you recognize, other than the steaks themselves, which nearly all come bone-in. This is fine by me, as bone-in usually means more flavor… but when you are dropping $48 on a piece of meat, you’re expecting something special.

Apps here can be eventful and silly at the same time. The Kobe Beef Sashimi is a popular choice and is solid. A classic steak tartare also makes an appearance. There is Warm Veal Tongue and Maple Glazed Pork Belly for those more adventurous, and an Heirloom Tomato and Goat Cheese dish for those who aren’t. In the middle, you have a wide variety of options including a Lobster and Crab “Louie” cocktail, Foie Gras and a Bone Marrow Flan which steals the show. It’s a nice selection… but at an average price of $20, be careful. You haven’t ordered the wine yet.

Kobe beef, as well American Waygu made an appearance in the US several years ago, and both continue to build momentum. Both varieties are available at CUT, and both come with a steep price. While a 6oz American Waygu can start around $60, the Japanese Kobe will set you back $120 for an 6oz New York Strip… and $160 for an 8oz Ribeye.

Ouch.

But is it worth it?

Good question. To me, no…. as I love the flavor of USDA Prime Beef, cooked perfectly. Sure, the Kobe stuff cuts like butter and tastes the same, but as unique as that taste is… it’s not the hearty steak I’ve come to know and love. Should you try it once? Absolutely. Would I serve it at a holiday BBQ?

Nah.

Steaks come with a variety of sauces, and I’m fairly sure every sauce on the planet is represented. From Mustard, to Chimichurri, to Bernaise, to Foie Gras “Rossini” style, and extra $2 will aid you in covering the taste of the steak you just mortgaged your house to buy.

The sides are delicious but still sides. The Swiss Chard is exceptional, and the fingerling potatoes “Lyonnaise” interesting. There are also mushrooms galore as well as Potato Tarte Tatin.

For those who aren’t as fond of red meat as I, there is a nice selection of fish dishes including Sea Bass, Big Eye Tuna and lobster… and a few pork and duckling offerings to make you pause. The best non-steak option may very well be the Veal “Holstein Schnitzel” with capers and fried egg. This is a dish Puck does better than any chef in America.


So good in fact, that I made a special trip to his Las Vegas eatery “Postrio” several years ago to eat it. It’s offered at lunch on the patio, and served with spaetzle and warm potato salad… maybe I’ll save this one for another time.

By the time you’ve reached dessert you are full… which is a shame, because the desserts looked amazing. On top of that, about this time the place becomes flooded with the jet set. On the way out, I rubbed shoulders with a supermodel and Don Rickles. Only in LA.

So, the verdict?

It’s good. Pretty. Fun. Expensive.

But in the end, I couldn’t figure out of we were paying for the meal… or the show. The cooler than all get out room, the tableside raw meat presentation, or just the honor of sitting in a Meier space eating stuff.

You will likely find a better steak down the street, but I must admit the space can be intoxicating… and for those who live the scene in LA, this is your joint.

Enjoy it. And bring lots of cash.